Installed FRPP Hood Pin Kit today.
Frame Preparation:
I chose to replace the bump stops with the hood pins.
I used a step drill bit and made the hole a little larger for the stud.
I applied a small amount of grease to the top of the hood pins and slowly closed the hood ontothe
pins allowing the grease to mark the hole location on the bottom side of the
hood. Then I prepped the top of the hood with painters tape to prevent damage to the paint.
Then I drilled a pilot hole from under side the hood slowly.
Then using the step drill bit I drilled the Pin hole to a size of 7/8 per the instructions.
The holes came out perfect, just need to clean up and adjust the height of the pins.
Then I carefully mounted the top plates.
Adjusted just right....
All finished.....
Source: American Muscle
Monday, July 8, 2013
Wednesday, July 3, 2013
Lowered the Cobra
FINALLY!!! Got rid of the 4x4 stance and installed FFRP Lowering Springs, SR ISO's and Maximum Motorsports Pinion Snubber.
Before...
The Install...
Removal/Install of the front springs:
- In order to begin installing the front springs, you will first want to set the car up on the jack stands, by placing one under each pinch rail, just behind the fenders.
- Remove the tire and the wheel.
- Next, remove the tie rod stud cotter pin, using needle nose or side cutting pliers.
- Remove the nut, using 18mm deep socket or wrench, and strike the spindle at the "X" shown in picture, to remove stud from spindle. If stud turns with nut, try using a pry bar to apply pressure on the tie rod stud to remove the nut. An air impact wrench is another possible way of removing the nut.
- Remove the sway bar link bolt, by removing the nut underneath the lower control arm.
- Now place a jack under the lower control arm, just enough to where there is slight pressure holding the arm in place.
- Loosen the lower arm bolts by 2 or 3 turns, in order to take tension off the bushings. This lets the arm hang freer and makes installation easier. Use 21 and 24 mm wrenches.
- Remove the ball joint nut and strike the lower control arm with the hammer, where you see the "X" in the picture. Use a 24mm deep socket or a box end 24mm wrench. Clearance is tight, but either tool should work fine.
- Move the spindle and strut aside and lower the jack, being careful not to catch the brake rotor backing plate on the arm, which could bend the backing plate.
- Remove spring and rubber spring isolator bushing.
- Install your new lowering springs, but first, place the isolator bushing and bottom of the spring in the lower control arm.
- Check the spring position. The spring must be over the first hole, but the second hole should still be visible on the lower control arm.
- Raise the jack under the lower control arm, until the ball joint can be reinstalled. Make sure the sway bar link lines up properly before tightening.
- Install ball joint nut. Tighten to 130 lbs-ft.
- Now re-tighten the two bolts on the lower control arm that were loosened earlier. Tighten them to 150 lbs-ft and remove the jack.
- Reinstall sway bar link and tighten that bolt to 20 lbs-ft.
- Next, reinstall the tie rod end into the spindle, torque that nut to 40 lbs-ft and install a new cotter pin. Bend the ends up and cotter pin up, and cut with side cutting pliers.
- Now throw the wheels back on and you're set for the front. Torque wheels with the impact wrench to 125 lbs-ft.
Removal/Install of the Rear springs: - First, raise the vehicle and place the jack stands under the pinch welds. Now remove the rear wheels.
- With the wheels removed, place the jack under the lower control arm.
- Remove the bolt attaching the lower control arm to the rear, using a 21mm bolt with 18mm nut.
- Lower the jack and remove the spring, using a pry bar toward the inside of the vehicle, to prevent damage to the ABS sensor wire. Use caution when prying the spring free.
- Install the new spring, taking care to keep the rubber isolator properly aligned on the lower control arm, and the top of the spring aligned into the spring perch.
- Jack the lower control arm up and reinstall the bolt. Torque the bolt to 150 lbs-ft.
- Repeat for other side of vehicle, and be sure to check to make sure springs are aligned and bolts are tight.
After...
Source: American Muscle - Springs and Isolators
Source: Late Model Restoration - Pinion Snubber
Saturday, May 18, 2013
Engine update
Decided to kill some time and paint some parts under the hood red.
I also took time to paint the headlight panel black as well as the radiator support.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)